How to Sew Lace Fabric? Steps & Tips

How to Sew Lace Fabric? Steps & Tips

You need a few tips and tricks to learn how to sew lace fabric because it is such a delicate fabric.

Your sewing projects will look more elegant if you include lace, whether it’s as an accent on a curtain, an overlay on a skirt, or an entire wedding gown. There are many lovely lace fabrics available to purchase and sew with because lace is such a lovely material.

But because it differs slightly from other fabrics, you should read through these working tips and tricks before starting your first project.

How to Sew Lace Fabric?

There are three techniques to choose from when learning how to sew lace, depending on the type of lace you are working with:

  • Stretch lace will need a technique to cope with both the stretch and lace combination
  • Sheer lace, which is very see-through, will need a lining
  • Fully patterned lace may need to be partly lined

How to Sew Stretch Lace Fabric?

For cutting and preparation, stretch lace can be treated like stretch fabric. When cutting, always use sharp scissors and take care not to stretch the lace out of shape. You can also get neat, clean edges with a rotary cutter that is sharp.

In order to prevent skipped stitches, be sure to use a stretch needle. Once your pattern pieces are prepared, choose a seam style to achieve the desired finish.

How to Sew Lace Fabric? Steps & Tips
  1. Your machine’s zigzag stitch functions well, but test the tension on a scrap of fabric before you begin. Start by testing a zigzag stitch with dimensions of 1.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches long. Make adjustments to fit your lace.
  2. If the lace does not have too much bulk, think about using a French seam.
  3. Bias bound seams
  4. It is best to use a serger to stitch the edges.

Play around a bit and refine the seam style you believe will work best for your garment and fabric.

How to Sew Sheer Lace Fabric?

The pattern on sheer lace is typically finer and more open, and it must be lined or at least partially lined.

A variation on the lining: Whether the matte or shiny side is facing up, the lining can be seen through the lace. As an alternative, consider using a contrast lining to further highlight the lace. What if your white lace had a bright pink peeking out from behind it?

To avoid lace slipping and the aggravation of unpicking, always pin and bast precisely before you begin.

  1. Cutting: You can maximize the use of your fabric by carefully planning and cutting your project. Cutting the lining out first, then using the lining’s pattern pieces to cut out the lace, is a good idea. So that you can maximize the design, you can arrange the lining pieces on the lace one at a time.
  2. Ready to sew: When your pieces are ready to be stitched together, begin by neatening areas like necklines by stitching the lining first. The lining of the garment should be on the inside of the neatly finished necklines. To the stitching line, trim precisely.
  3. Darts: If the darts are sewn together using the lining and lace to fold together and create one stitch line, they also look neater and lie better.
  4. Stitch seams: Together with the lace, sew the seams to enclose the lining. By doing this, you can prevent the lining’s exterior from displaying a lace seam. The garment’s interior will have the seam for the lace and lining.
How to Sew Lace Fabric? Steps & Tips

How to Sew Patterned Lace Fabric?

Usually, pattern lace requires seamless seams and a partial lining. This method is frequently employed for wedding gowns like the one in this image where the bodice will be partially lined and is appropriate for lace with a little more coverage.

It’s crucial to carefully plan and think through where to put the lace’s denser sections when learning how to sew lace.

Many red carpet dresses are a great illustration of this, with their clever use of lace to both reveal and conceal the body for maximum impact.

  1. Place your pattern pieces on the lace fabric, and then use a needle and basting thread to stitch in the seam lines so you can see exactly where the lace will be stitched.
  2. To achieve a seamless effect, cut out each piece separately so you can match the patterns and designs.
  3. Cut the pattern pieces wide on the side that will be “seamed,” then match the thread-marked edges of the pieces so that the fabric looks like the lace is made from a single piece.
  4. To zigzag around the lace’s pattern and details, use your machine’s zigzag stitch. In order to turn the lace as you travel around sharp turns, you might need to lift your machine foot.
  5. Once the pieces are attached, trim the extra fabric from the back to give the lace a clever seamless appearance. For this task, sharp embroidery scissors are ideal.
  6. Now that you know which parts of the garment will stand alone showcasing their delicate design and which parts will require some lining, you can make those decisions.

Tips for Sewing Lace

Lace is delicate when compared to many other fabrics. It is easier to sew with than you might think, but it should still be handled carefully.

How to Sew Lace Fabric? Steps & Tips

Use Invisible Seaming Techniques

Big, bulky seams ruin the delicate lace designs like nothing else. Even though lace’s open structure has drawbacks, it also offers novel solutions. Of course, it’s not always possible to avoid noticeable seam lines.

On net-backed lace, for instance, you can use appliques made from leftover yardage to cover seams. Sew the applique all the way around, and there you have it!

Get a Little Extra

Lace patterns are frequently directional, so if your pattern requires symmetry, you must make sure you have enough fabric to arrange everything perfectly. Use the “with nap” measurements if your pattern provides them.

Make sure to add the additional yards for yourself if you don’t. Having a little extra to work with is never a bad idea because lace is not forgiving when it comes to covering up errors.

Try Thread Tracing

The difficulty of identifying your patterns is one of the unique difficulties of lace. Notches practically vanish, and marking pens and chalk don’t show up very well. Use the thread-tracing method instead.

Run lengthy basting stitches through your lace in the designated parking areas using a vibrant, contrasting color of thread. You can cut and sew along these lines, then after you’re finished, just draw the threads out to reveal a spotless seam line.

Avoid Backstitching

How to Sew Lace Fabric? Steps & Tips

Normally, we backstitch to secure a seam at its beginning or conclusion. The background fabric may bunch up when backstitching lace, leaving your seam ends less than neat.

Leave slightly longer thread tails and tie them off by hand at the beginning and end of your seam in place of backstitching. It requires a little bit more work, but the neat finished look is worth it.

Take Advantage of Decorative Edges

At least one decorative edge, usually a scallop, can be found on most lace designs. The hem or neckline, where a bulky finish is certain to show, is the ideal place for this finish. Take this time and hassle-saving feature full advantage of by paying attention to how your pattern is laid out.

Choose the ‘right Side’ and Stick With It

There is usually a distinct right and wrong side to most fabrics, especially prints. This also holds true for some lace that is embroidered on only one side of the fabric. Less is known about other kinds of lace, though.

You should choose one side or the other and be consistent throughout your project, even if it doesn’t seem to matter which is the “right” side. You avoid having an unintentionally off-color panel by ensuring that any subtle color or texture variations are also consistent.

Conclusion: How to Sew Lace Fabric?

Be brave and incorporate some lace into your upcoming project. It is clear that sewing with lace can be enjoyable and a wonderful decorative element. Sewing slowly will help preserve the integrity of the lace.

Avoid trying to sew too quickly because doing so may cause the lace to shift or warp as you sew. As you become more at ease, you can sew more quickly. You’re ready to begin sewing with lace. Post a comment below and share your own lace advice with us.


Is It Difficult to Sew Lace?

Lace can be a difficult fabric to sew, but there are several things you can do to make it easier. To prepare your lace, follow these steps: wash it, cut it, and make sure you have the proper auxiliary materials to go with it.

What Stitch Length for Sewing Lace?

Use a new 70 needle and sew with a 2.5 mm stitch length. A narrow zigzag stitch will stop threads from tearing when the garment is worn if the lace is stretchy in some spots. Typically, a width between 0.3 and 0.5 is adequate. It’s best to stay away from buttons and buttonholes.

What Size Needle Do You Use for Lace Fabric?

Very thin needles (8/60, 9/65) are used on delicate fabrics like silk, chiffon, lace, organza, and voile. For lightweight fabrics like synthetics, velvet, batiste, and taffeta, thin needles (10/75, 11/75) are used.

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