Twill Fabric

What Is Twill Fabric? Everything You Need To Know

I’ll examine how twill is made, used, and best maintained in this article. I’ll also offer some advice on how to care for twill fabrics.

When lounging on your couch in your denim jeans, for example, twill is a versatile fabric weave that you probably encounter every day. The weave is distinguished by its diagonal lines, which are caused by an offset in the warp threads. Twill is widely used for jeans, chinos, furniture covers, bags, and other items because it is highly durable and effectively conceals stains.

Although twill is a common and versatile fabric, we frequently overlook its presence in day-to-day activities. What is twill fabric? Most people wouldn’t necessarily know that they probably have twill fabric all around them in their everyday lives. Twill is one of the three original textile weaves, along with satin and plain weave.

Let’s find out everything about twill fabric.

What Is Twill Fabric?

Along with plain and satin, twill is one of the three original weaves that have been in use for thousands of years. A particular kind of weave that results in a diamond or diagonal pattern in the fabric is known by the name “twill.”

Different kinds of materials are used to create different types of “twill” fabrics. Cotton, polyester, silk, and wool are just a few of the materials that can be used to weave twill.

Most frequently, twill is used to make more durable textiles. It isn’t a fabric that is typically printed, but it can be woven to produce distinctive patterns and use mixed-color yarn to reveal designs in the weave itself. Depending on how it is woven, twill can also have a double-sided pattern in the weave.

What Are the Two Types of Twill Weave?

Twill, which is not a plain weave, has two sides: even or “balanced” twill, and warp-faced twill.

What Is Twill Fabric? Everything You Need To Know

Balanced Twills

On the fabric’s front and back, these twills will appear to be identical. This is produced by the even weave.

  • Foulard: A lightweight silk or silk-cotton blend with a distinctly soft feel is known as foulard twill. According to legend, the Far East is where the weave’s distinctive repeating block pattern came from.
  • Herringbone: Herringbone is a distinctive offset zigzag pattern that is frequently created using multiple colored yarns. Herringbone weaves are well-represented in fabrics like tweed.
  • Houndstooth: Houndstooth, which gets its name from the way it’s made up of colored yarns and woven patterns, resembles a jagged tooth and repeats throughout the fabric. This is done by alternating bands of four dark threads and then four white threads.

Warp-faced Twills

Warp-faced twill is a type of twill fabric that has the majority of the yarn on the face, giving it a unique appearance on each side.

  • Chino: Chinos typically feature a cotton-synthetic blend, a variety of color options, and a twill weave. Chinos are a casual summer wardrobe staple that is most frequently seen in light brown or khaki.
  • Denim: Denim is a tough and long-lasting fabric that is typically found in jeans and jackets. It is a densely woven fabric. Denim is typically dyed on the warp, leaving the weft a much lighter color that gives denim jeans their recognizable appearance.
  • Drill: Drill, a fabric made of cotton, is strong, dense, and retains color well, making it a popular choice for work uniforms, children’s clothing, and home furnishings. It looks smoother than denim and is frequently dyed in vivid colors.
  • Gabardine: Gabardine, a strong and resilient example of a balanced twill that is frequently used to create overcoats and suits, is primarily made of worsted wool, cotton, silk, or a combination of these materials.

What Are the Properties of Twill Fabric?

Due to the closely packed fibers, twill is a sturdy and long-lasting fabric. Because of the unusual weave, it has an excellent drape. Foulard is a soft type of twill fabric, while tweed has a more coarse texture.

What Is Twill Fabric? Everything You Need To Know

Depending on the kind of fibers used to make it, twill’s properties differ significantly. Originally, natural fibers like wool and cotton were used to make twill, but nowadays it’s common to see a mixture of synthetic fibers as well, like polyester.

Twill lacks stretch, making it unsuitable for clothing like sportswear or cozy loungewear. The weave’s density affects how well a material breathes. Twill can, of course, be produced using a variety of fibers, and the functionality of the twill product will depend on the characteristics of the used fibers.

It would need to be considered that it has the propensity to shrink and fray severely. When using some twill types, taking into account naps is also crucial.

So what purposes does twill fabric serve? Upholstery and home furnishings can benefit greatly from their high level of durability and ability to withstand heavy use. Given that it is opaque, it makes a good choice for clothing and home decor items like curtains.

Due to their strength and adaptability for use in costume creation, twill fabrics are also popular among cosplayers.

How Is Twill Fabric Made?

Cotton, polyester, or a combination of the two are the fibers most frequently used for twill weaves.

The weft thread, which is horizontal, is woven over one or more warp threads, which are vertical and held taut on the loom, and then under one or more warp threads when weaving twill. The diagonal pattern is produced by the offset between each row and the row above it. To identify the method of weaving, twill weaves are divided into fractions. If a twill is marked as 3/1, for instance, it means that the weft is woven over three warp threads and under one warp thread.

What Is Twill Fabric Used For?

What Is Twill Fabric? Everything You Need To Know

Clothing, accessories, and home goods can all be made from twill, a tough and functional fabric. Here are a few well-known products made from twill fabric.

The most common and widely used application of the twill weave is probably in denim. Typically, cotton or a cotton blend is used to weave denim.

Khaki pants and chinos are both made of cotton twill fabric. Chinos and jeans are distinguished by the fabric’s weight. While chinos are lighter in weight, jeans are made of denser fabric.

Fabric in herringbone, houndstooth, and tweed. When several different colored yarns are woven together in a twill weaves, patterns like tweed and houndstooth are produced. Herringbone can also be made by weaving various colored yarns into a twill pattern or by using the same color yarns to make a directional pattern.

The twill weave produces a very durable fabric, which is ideal for outdoor and industrial work clothes like overalls and jumpsuits that get a lot of hard wear.

The twill weave is commonly used to create upholstery fabrics and home décor items like sofas, chairs, cushions, and curtains because they must typically withstand years of constant use.

The twill weave is very well-liked for sheets, bedding, and towels because it allows for high thread counts. Cotton fabrics with a higher thread count tend to be softer and last longer, making them ideal for daily use.

Five Benefits Of Using Twill Fabric

There are many advantages to using twill, which is distinguished by the diagonal weave pattern on the fabric’s face.

  • Twill fabric is incredibly strong and resistant to wear, making it a fantastic material for clothing and upholstery.
  • All twill fabrics are very opaque because of the twill weave, which prevents sheerness and makes them ideal for clothing, home decor, and curtains.
  • The pattern’s direction helps hide dirt and stains from view, making it easier to conceal spills at home or on clothing.
  • Demonstrates few creases and wrinkles. Due to the material’s thickness, twill fabric doesn’t wrinkle up very easily.
  • Twill drapes well, making it a good material for clothing, sheets, and other items.

What Is Twill Fabric Good For?

The Berne Micro Twill All Weather Coat, British Khaki, Medium by LONDON FOG is made of twill fabric, which is used to make a wide variety of clothing and home goods. These can be anything from your couch’s plush upholstery to your favorite pair of blue jeans!

In terms of attire, twill fabric is typically worn in pants, jackets, and coats as well as in more robust work attire. However, a twill weave made of breathable cotton can feel great in the heat because of the numerous ridges that allow air to sneak through the weave in the form of tiny dimples. Wool twill weave provides equally effective insulation to keep you warm during the winter. 

Jeans, denim jackets, khaki and chino pants, work uniforms, military uniforms, winter coats, and suits are examples of common garments made from twill weave fabric. 

What Is Twill Fabric? Everything You Need To Know

Numerous types of upholstery fabric, sheets, and bath towels are common examples of household items made of twill weave. For these products, manufacturers prefer a twill weave because it results in a stronger, more resilient material that won’t break down under heavy use. In the winter, bedsheets with a twill weave can offer a cozy, supple, and drapey fabric. 

Is Twill Fabric Warm?

According to the fabric used to make it, twill can feel warm. It frequently has a dense, heavy weave that aids in retaining heat. However, compared to other fibers like cotton, some fibers, like wool, will offer more insulation and warmth. 

Nevertheless, twill-weave fabric typically has more weight and thickness than plain-weave fabric like poplin or muslin. In comparison to most plain weave fabrics, it will therefore offer more warmth. 

You should probably purchase a wool coat if you want one that is warm and has a distinctive twill weave.

How To Care For Twill Fabric?

The type of fibers used to make a particular twill garment will determine how to care for it. Think about the seat or knees on your favorite pair of jeans to get an idea of how some twill fabrics will deteriorate over time. As the fabrics are worn, they may flatten out and appear a little shiny.

What Is Twill Fabric? Everything You Need To Know

Can Twill Fabrics Be Washed?

100% cotton twill can usually be machine washed or spot cleaned, but keep in mind that the first wash usually results in a 2-5% shrinkage. It won’t shrink and will work fine using polyester twill.

Unlike cotton-polyester blend twill, which can only handle a low tumble heat, cotton twill can be tumble dried. Wool twill fabrics must be handled carefully, washed in cold water, and laid flat to dry. The same care must be taken with other wool fabrics.

Can Twill Fabric Be Ironed?

The short answer is yes, but depending on the fiber content of your particular twill fabric, you will need to exercise caution. Unlike blended twills, which require lower heat without steam, cotton twills can be ironed with steam and at a high temperature.

Conclusion: What Is Twill Fabric?

Any type of cloth that is woven in a twill pattern falls under the umbrella term of “twill fabric.” A twill weave is characterized by a pattern of diagonal lines created by raised thread ridges. Wool, cotton, polyester, and other materials are all acceptable additions to twill fabric. Denim, khaki, and tweed are a few of the most well-liked varieties of twill fabric. A twill weave is used in intricate weaving designs like herringbone and houndstooth.

I’ve made an effort to cover all the essential details about twill fabric in this article. Depending on the weave, twill can be a soft, delicate fabric or a dense, heavy one. It’s crucial to keep in mind that you should conduct extensive research into your preferred fabric before making a purchase, so be sure to check out my other articles on fabric!


Is Twill Better Than Cotton?

Cotton twill is also resistant to wrinkles, and creases and has a major pro of showing less dirt and stains. Cotton twill fabric’s heavier weight compared to other cotton and fabric types is a drawback, though. In comparison to other fabrics, cotton twill is a little more expensive.

Can You Wear Twill in the Summer?

Twill tends to be a lightweight, durable fabric that’s comfortable for wearing even during the heat. You should be able to see the weave’s distinctive diagonal lines up close. This usually results in a surprisingly versatile fabric that is strong, airy, and ultimately comfortable.

Is Twill Fabric Hot?

Of course, fiber should also be taken into account. Compared to polyester twill, linen or cotton twill feels airier. The breathability is mainly impacted by the fabric’s thickness, which makes twill warmer than a lot of other fabrics — especially if it’s made from wool!

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